Paris Art Digest #06: What the Riviera Is Showing Right Now

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Michel Verjux — Voiles, découpes, traverses

Musée Picasso, Antibes · June 28 – September 27
Light as medium, architecture as partner. Verjux projects incisions of light onto the walls and floors of the Château Grimaldi — the very building where Picasso worked through the autumn of 1946. The intervention is site-specific in the fullest sense: the light reads the building, not the other way round.

Peter Knapp — Le Temps Courrèges

Fondation Maeght, Saint-Paul-de-Vence · Summer 2026
Swiss photographer, art director of Elle during its golden years, collaborator of Courrèges at the height of Space Age fashion. Knapp’s images are design objects. This show at the Fondation pairs an extraordinary archive with a building that has always understood how light and form belong together.

Dany Albiach — Là où le jour cède

Villa Arson, Nice · Until September 27
The art school on the hill, with its labyrinthine terraces overlooking the city, hosts two shows running in parallel. Albiach’s solo — painting at the threshold of light and absence — shares the summer programme with Staring at the Sun, the graduating students’ exhibition. One of the most consistently surprising addresses in Nice, and almost no one goes.

Michel Verjux, Voiles, découpes, traverses, 2026
© Musée Picasso, Antibes / Photo François Fernandez

RE–SITU Recommends: La Treille Bar à Vin

7 rue Saint-Augustin, Vieux-Nice
Natural wines and homemade tapas, tucked into a ruelle that only regulars know exists. No sign. No terrace. A low-lit room and a list of producers who don’t make the usual rounds. Open from 6pm. The right ending for an afternoon at Villa Arson.

Off the map

Victor Brauner — L’Aventure magique

NMNM Villa Paloma, Monaco · July 3, 2026 – January 3, 2027
Romanian-born surrealist (1903–1966), barely known to the general public, endlessly inventive in private. Over 160 works from an exceptional Monaco private collection — paintings, drawings, sculptures — spanning four decades of an imagination shaped by Breton, by Romanian mythology, and by an inner world that had very little to do with the visible one. The Nouveau Musée National is at its best when it reveals an artist you did not know you needed.

Chagall à l’œuvre — Un prêt d’exception

Musée National Marc Chagall, Nice · Until September 21
Chagall designed this building himself. The garden, the stained-glass windows, the proportion of the rooms — everything was conceived to hold his work. A loan of exceptional works returns some of what belongs here. The permanent collection alone earns the visit; this summer it goes further.

Coun — Libera l’Art au Palais Lascaris

Palais Lascaris, Nice · Until January 27, 2027
A 17th-century Baroque palace in the heart of Vieux-Nice, hosting a contemporary intervention that puts the people of Nice — their faces, their gestures, their street-level presence — back into rooms built for aristocratic display. The tension between the setting and the subject is the work.

Victor Brauner, Repas de la Somnambule, août 1942 © Sacem Monaco 2026 / NMNM, Villa Paloma

RE–SITU Recommends: Bistrot Tartine

30 route de la Piscine, Monaco
A bistrot at bistrot prices in a principality that rarely allows either. French home cooking, daily market produce, no performance. The address the Monégasques give each other, and almost never share. The right counterpoint to Villa Paloma.

Les Immanquables

Ellsworth Kelly — Aux bords de l’eau

Fondation Maeght, Saint-Paul-de-Vence · June 27 – November 15
Large-scale paintings, plant drawings, and shaped canvases installed across the Fondation’s modernist galleries and gardens. Kelly’s relationship to form — edge, boundary, the precise line where one colour stops and another begins — finds its ideal setting in a building designed by Josep Lluís Sert. The show that defines the Riviera art summer of 2026.

Henri Matisse × Yves Saint Laurent — Le beau, la mode et le bonheur

Musée Matisse, Nice · June 17 – September 28
Two artists for whom colour was not decoration but architecture. The exhibition pairs works from the Matisse collection with pieces from the Fondation Pierre Bergé–YSL, tracing the unspoken conversation between a painter who dressed women in colour and a couturier who painted women in fabric. The Villa des Arènes, Cimiez, is worth the climb regardless.

De la scène à la toile — Artistes et mondaines de la Belle Époque

Musée des Beaux-Arts Jules Chéret, Nice · June 19, 2026 – April 4, 2027
The Belle Époque through its performers, socialites, and artists — a world where theatre and painting borrowed from each other constantly. The museum itself, a former private villa on the Promenade, is part of the story: this is where that world lived, entertained, and sat for portraits.

Henri Matisse × Yves Saint Laurent — Le beau, la mode et le bonheur © Musée Matisse Nice / Fondation Pierre Bergé–YSL

RE–SITU Recommends: L’Escalinada

22 rue Pairolière, Vieux-Nice
Pure cuisine nissarde, unchanged in decades — beignets de fleurs de courgette, pissaladière, stockfisch. A Gault&Millau address that has never needed to reinvent itself. Sit outside on the rue Pairolière, order slowly, and remember that Matisse lived five minutes away.